Step-by-Step Rafflesita–A Pattern Supplement

May 15th, 2015

Crocheted Rafflesia Flower Tutorial

The Rafflesia is a great, big flower—about 3 feet across. It’s the inspiration for this tiny version, called “Rafflesita.” Because –ita means little. The pattern for “Rafflesita” is on pages 122-123 of Crochet Garden: Bunches of Flowers, Leaves, and Other Delights. These photos and notes are meant to supplement the instructions in the book. Thank you Kathleen, for asking about the instructions.

The samples in Crochet Garden are each crocheted from a single variegated yarn. These photos show a flower made with several colors, so you can see the different parts of the flower better. And besides, it looks pretty good.

Crocheted Rafflesia Flower Tutorial

Rnds 1 and 2 are straightforward rounds of double crochet. Rnd 3 is worked into the Front Loop (FL) Only of Rnd 2. It forms a support for the final round of the flower. Rnd 4 is worked into the Back Loop (BL) Only of Rnd 2. You will work the petals and the final round of the flower into Rnd 4.

Crocheted Rafflesia Flower Tutorial

Here’s the first petal done, and the second petal begun. This is the “ch 6″ of 5A in the pattern. The chain takes you away from the flower center.

Crocheted Rafflesia Flower Tutorial

Continuing 5A, you work back toward the flower center, along the ch, and join to the BL of the next st of Rnd 4.

Crocheted Rafflesia Flower Tutorial

Instruction 5B has you stitching away from the flower again.

Crocheted Rafflesia Flower Tutorial

And 5C has you coming back toward the center, and joining with a sl st in the BL of the next st of Rnd 4.

Crocheted Rafflesia Flower Tutorial

Crochet away from the flower in 5D.

Crocheted Rafflesia Flower Tutorial

Crochet back toward the center for 5E, but pay attention here, because you’re going to skip one st of Rnd 4, before joining with a sl st in the BL of the next st.

Crocheted Rafflesia Flower Tutorial

Back out one more time with 5F.

Crocheted Rafflesia Flower Tutorial

Toward the flower center one last time for 5G, and you’re done with the next petal.

Crocheted Rafflesia Flower Tutorial

When the petals are complete, slip stitch around each petal as described in Rnd 6. If you find that 16 sl sts across the top are too many or too few, please alter the pattern to suit you.

Crocheted Rafflesia Flower Tutorial

To begin Rnd 7 with a dc, place a slip knot on your hook (as if you were starting a new project), yo hook, and draw up a loop in any FL of Rnd 4. Now you have 3 loops on the hook. Finish the dc as usual.

The FLs of Rnd 4 are pretty easy to see in this photo. They are the line of loops just inside the petal row.

Crocheted Rafflesia Flower Tutorial

Rnd 7 is worked from the top of the flower. If you’re a right-handed crocheter (meaning you hold the hook in your right hand—doesn’t matter which hand you write with), proceed in the direction of the arrow in this picture.

Crocheted Rafflesia Flower Tutorial

For me, it was easiest to fold the petals back and hold them with my thumb.

Crocheted Rafflesia Flower Tutorial

When you’re finished with Rnd 7, cut the yarn and pull the final loop out of the top of the last st (A in photo). Thread the yarn into a needle, and take the needle under the top lps of the 2nd st of the rnd (B in photo).

Crocheted Rafflesia Flower Tutorial

Take the needle down into the top of the final stitch, where the arrow is pointing in the photo. Tighten the loop to make it the same tension as the other stitches. Weave in the ends.

Crocheted Rafflesia Flower Tutorial

Rafflesita’s center is like a little bowl, where you can store small things, like these fossils.

Crocheted Rafflesia Flower Tutorial

Tiny Crocheted Prom Dress–A Pattern Supplement

May 5th, 2015

It’s prom season on Cute Crochet World! Oh my–if only the prom dresses of Earth were as easy and inexpensive to make as the prom dresses of Cute Crochet World! Our bank accounts would be a lot fatter.

While humans can’t necessarily wear this dress from Cute Crochet World the book (“Dress-Up Time,” pp. 122-123), you might want to make one or more anyway, using the step-by-step photos below to supplement the instructions in the book.

BUT FIRST—

Some Cute Ideas for Using this Pretty Dress-Up Dress

  • Photograph the dress. Use your digital camera photo software to cut the dress from from the background (I use the magnetic lasso tool on Adobe Photoshop Elements). Paste into a word processing document and create after-prom party invitations.
  • Color photocopy the dress, enlarging or reducing it to the appropriate size for your project. Again, cut the dress from the background, paste onto a printed party invitation. Then you can make multiple color copies from this original.
  • Use the dress itself for a prom memories scrapbook page.
  • Crochet it with very fine thread and use it to decorate a picture frame.
  • Pin to your bulletin board.

Step-by-Step Photos

Start crocheting the dress from the waist down. The photo above shows Row 1 of the Skirt done, and Row 2 started. Row 2 instructs you to “dc in the first dc,” indicated by the yellow line. The turning ch-3 usually counts as the stitch in the first st, but since we’re increasing, this stitch will now have two stitches in it.

Row 4 is all picots, worked in the back loop only. This is what a finished Row 4 looks like. The yellow lines are pointing to the front loops, which haven’t been worked yet. When you turn the piece after Row 4, these front loops will become back loops. Row 5 is worked into the back loops.

Row 8 is finished here, and I am joining color B to the first stitch with a tr. To do this, place a slip knot on the hook (as if you were starting a project), yo twice, draw up a loop in the first st (4 loops on hook), and finish the tr. I like starting a new color this way, because it looks better to me than joining with a sl st and chaining.

The skirt is finished, and I’m starting back at the waist, looking at the right side of the skirt, and joining color A with a hdc.


To make the cap sleeve, chain as instructed (top photo) and make two picots to define the sleeve (lower photo). At this point, you will skip the picots and make the first st in the next ch, which is indicated by the yellow line.

The hdc-decrease pulls the sleeve upward.

After the neck shaping, place a marker as instructed in the pattern.

For the first sleeve, the chain formed the outside edge of the sleeve. For this sleeve, the chain forms the inside or upper edge of the sleeve. The yellow line shows where to place the first st after the picots. The shaping is slightly different, to make it symmetrical with the other sleeve.

And finish the sleeve and the top of the dress with a sl st in the stitch you marked earlier.

The corsage is pretty simple. To reduce bulk, make a ring with the yarn. Work into the ring, then tighten the first yarn end to form the flower.

Whew! You can stop now, if you’re pleased with your dress. It looks sort of summery and informal. Read on if you prefer to add the drapes.

Here’s the drape, with Row 1 complete. Work Row 2 into the original chain, opposite of the stitches of Row 1, as shown by the yellow lines. They will actually mirror each other—hdc across from hdc, dc across from dc, and so on. (Htr how-to here.)

The long sewing length is at the lower end of the drapes. To keep them symmetrical, start the trim at the top of one drape and at the lower end of the other drape.

Arrange the drapes and sew in place.

Even after blocking, my picot rows tended to stand up, so this time, I sewed real pearls of plastic on each picot for an even fancier ball gown.

Crochet Poetray about a Turtle and Pasta

April 24th, 2015

Crocheted turtle and pasta

The Turtle and the Pasta

A work of Crochet Poetray by Suzann Thompson, author of Cute Crochet World, where you can find instructions to make the “turtle of crochet.”

Here are teeny

turtellini

with a turtle

of crochet. Or

pray, are they two

tortellini

with a crochet—

*chortle*—tortle?

April 18th—Create a Piece of TextileFusion All Your Own!

April 2nd, 2015

First I have to tell you this story. When Lark Books contracted with me in 2006 to write Crochet Bouquet, my editor sent me a stack of pictures of crocheted flowers from the internet. “Here’s some inspiration,” she said, more or less.

I looked through the pictures she sent, and saw my very own wall hanging–Shards 2: Sometimes, the one you see in the photo above! One of my mixed-media quilts had crossed over into the realm of inspiration. It was a good day!

And now, back to the present. Since I use lots of fiber techniques in my wall hangings, I call them “TextileFusion,” which combines knitting, crochet, quilting, and embellishment.

Join me on Saturday, April 18, 2015, to learn how the TextileFusion technique has developed over the years. Then make a small piece of TextileFusion of your very own!

The San Jose Museum of Quilts and Textiles (520 South First Street, San Jose, CA) will host the workshop from 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. on the 18th of this month.

Read more about the TextileFusion workshop and register soon at: https://secure.acceptiva.com/?cst=4c411e

San Jose Museum of Quilts and Textiles

Mark Your Calendars for Great Crochet!

March 1st, 2015

We have a lot to celebrate on March 17 this year. We’ll wear green or maybe drink green beverages in honor of St. Patrick’s Day. Then we can mosey down to the nearest newsstand for a copy of the Spring 2015 issue of Interweave Crochet.

Interweave Crochet, Spring 2015

One of my career goals has been to publish a design in Interweave Crochet. Well, this is it! My crochet charm lace Dogwood Scarf appears in this issue. And here’s the best part: it’s on the cover.

I hope you’ll buy a copy, because it has lots more great crochet designs in it. Or better yet, subscribe. Find more information here: Interweave Crochet, Spring 2015.

Find a photo-tutorial for the Dogwood flower at http://www.textilefusion.com/bookblog/?p=892

Gambel Oak Leaves—A Photo-Tutorial

November 25th, 2014

Crocheted Gambel Oak Leaf Tutorial

Patricia, a crocheter who contacted me through Ravelry, asked for clarification of the instructions for the Gambel Oak Leaves on pages 21-23 of Crochet Garden. Thank you for asking, Patricia!

We’ll start with the Small Leaf (page 23). You will need the book for complete stitching instructions:

Crocheted Gambel Oak Leaf Tutorial

Both Gambel Oak leaves are made with long rows that comprise the lobes (always odd-numbered rows) and short rows which are the spacers between the lobes.

Here are the first two rows of the Small Leaf. Row 2 has a long turning chain, because Row 3 is a long row. Some of the sts of Row 3 are on the chain, and some are made into the sts of Row 2, as you can see from the marks on the photo.

Crocheted Gambel Oak Leaf Tutorial

Row 3 is finished, and includes a turning ch for Row 4.

Crocheted Gambel Oak Leaf Tutorial

These are the rows through Row 5.

Design Note:

Think about a ripple afghan. To make the bottom of the “V” in a ripple afghan, we decrease stitches to pull up the stitches on each side of the bottom point, to make the V. By decreasing at the center of the leaf, we’re pulling the lobes up from the bottom point of the leaf. We’re making half of a V.

Also, in Rows 1-4, the stitches toward the center of the leaf are long. Rows 5-9 have sc or sl st as the last st toward the center of the leaf. The short stitches curve the lobes around the top of the leaf to start down the other side.

Crocheted Gambel Oak Leaf Tutorial

After the last st of Row 9, we join to the first half of the leaf with a sl st in the base of Row 5. The base of Row 5 is the stitch in which the last st of Row 5 was made.

Then ch 1, sl st into the base of Row 4. The base of Row 4 is as close as you can get to the first ch of the turning chain at the end of Row 3 (which leads up to Row 4). The marks show the base of each row you need to stitch into.

Crocheted Gambel Oak Leaf Tutorial

This is what the leaf should look like at the end of Row 9, just before you turn.

Crocheted Gambel Oak Leaf Tutorial

For Row 10, skip the sl sts that join to the center of the leaf, and work sts as shown.

Crocheted Gambel Oak Leaf Tutorial

Row 11 is done, and this shows where to join in the base of Rows 3 and 2.

Design Note:

Back to the idea of a ripple afghan. To form the peak of a chevron in a ripple afghan, we increase stitches at the top. This pushes down the stitches on either side of the peak to make an upside-down V or arrow point ?.

Hold the leaf, with the top lobe pointing down. The lobes join at the top of the peak. That is why, on this side of the leaf, working from tip to base, we increase sts close to the center of the leaf. We do it to push the lobes down toward the tip of the leaf.

Think about it this way: an increase is an upside down decrease; a decrease is an upside down increase. This is a good thing to know when you’re designing your own patterns.

Crocheted Gambel Oak Leaf Tutorial

Row 13 is finished and joined to the base of Row 1. Now we’re ready to make the stem.

Crocheted Gambel Oak Leaf Tutorial

After crocheting the stem, take the yarn to the wrong side of the leaf. Read the full instructions for making the central vein, page 22.

Crocheted Gambel Oak Leaf Tutorial

Working up the middle of the leaf, insert the hook from front to back, yo at the back, make ch sts where the space is long, if you’re close to a joining stitch, sl st in that st. Work these ch and sl sts until you are at the base of the top lobe. Cut yarn and pull to front.

Crocheted Gambel Oak Leaf Tutorial

Insert the hook from wrong side to right side at the point where the yarn comes out of the leaf, but do not insert the hook in the last ch st. Yo with the cut end and pull it to the back. The last ch st will prevent the stitches from unraveling. Weave in ends.

Crocheted Gambel Oak Leaf Tutorial
Here’s the Large Leaf (instructions begin on page 21), worked through Row 11. The marks show the bases of the rows where the lobes are joined with sl sts.

Crocheted Gambel Oak Leaf Tutorial

Row 11 is joined with a sl st in the base of Row 7.

Crocheted Gambel Oak Leaf Tutorial

This shows where to place the sts of Row 8.

Crocheted Gambel Oak Leaf Tutorial

When you finish crocheting the leaves, the lobes curl into themselves, so as you block, be sure to stretch the end of each lobe to pull them out to their proper shape.

To block small pieces like this, I hold them under the water tap for a few seconds, squeeze out excess water, stretch each lobe, and finally hold a hot iron over them, barely touching the crochet. Sometimes I use a damp press cloth to protect the stitching as well as add more steam.

Perspective Daisy Table Mat Finally Finished!

November 21st, 2014

Perspective Daisy Crochet Charm Lace table mat

I enjoy getting together with family on weekends and “watching” football. Why did I put “watching” in quotes? Because I usually only look at the TV when people get excited, hoping that whatever fantastic play just happened will be shown again. Sound familiar, my fellow knitters and crocheters?

Yep, I’m usually working on some kind of project. But it can’t be too complex, because that would keep me from listening to the conversation and the commentary. So the project for this season has been Crochet Charm Lace.

Perspective Daisy Crochet Charm Lace table mat

Last weekend, as we watched the Texas Longhorns play football, I finished the Perspective Daisy table mat. I’m still debating whether to add more filler motifs. Before I decide, it needs to be used for a while. That way, I’ll be able to see where they are needed most.

On to the next project!

Perspective Daisy Crochet Charm Lace table mat

The Perspective Daisy pattern is from Crochet Garden: Bunches of Flowers, Leaves, and Other Delights. Follow the progress of the Perspective Daisy table mat project in these posts about Crochet Charm Lace. After rereading these posts, I see that I was arranging motifs for this project during a 2013 Texas Longhorn football game. Time flies.

Cute Crochet World‘s “Owl” Makes Artistic Debut

November 12th, 2014

Owls are so cute! Crocheters love them, if #crochetowls on Instagram is anything to go by. Have a look at crocheted owls on Google Images for an amazing variety of big-eyed birds.

To quote the famous sonnet writer, Elizabeth Barrett Brownyarn, “How do I crochet an owl? Let me count the ways. Oh, wow. There are lots of ways to crochet an owl–way too many to fit into sonnet form.”

Night Owl, Bright Owl, © 2014 by Suzann Thompson, commissioned by the friend of a bride who loves owls.

Step-by-Step Forget Me Not

November 10th, 2014

Crocheted Forget Me Not Flower Tutorial

Today is National Forget-Me-Not Day! Who knew? Many thanks to Vintage Bell Broken China Jewelry, whom I follow on Facebook, for bringing this to my attention! National Forget-Me-Not Day reminds us to get in touch with friends and relatives that we don’t see very often.

National Forget-Me-Not Day has nothing to do with flowers, but what better day to bring you a tutorial for the Forget Me Not flower on pages 86-87 of Crochet Garden? You’ll need a small amount of yellow yarn for the center, white or very light blue for Rnd 2, and sky blue for the petals.

Crocheted Forget Me Not Flower Tutorial

Rnd 1 is the brilliant yellow, single crochet center of the flower. Rnd 2 tells you to join the next color “with dc in FL of any st of rnd 1.” To join with a double crochet, place a slip knot on your hook and yarn over. Holding the yo in place on the hook, insert hook into the front loop of any stitch of Rnd 1.

Crocheted Forget Me Not Flower Tutorial

Draw up a loop (as in photo). Now you have three loops on your hook, which is exactly what you need to finish the double crochet. Work the rest of the stitches of Rnd 2 in the front loops only of Rnd 1.

Crocheted Forget Me Not Flower Tutorial

Here’s Rnd 2 all finished, with the yarn ends woven in. Do you see the stitches of Rnd 1 that have no stitches of Rnd 2 in them? We’re going to call those “free sc”s.

Crocheted Forget Me Not Flower Tutorial

Rnd 3 is worked in the back loops of the stitches of Rnd 1, so you need to fold Rnd 2 to the front, completely out of the way, and insert your hook behind Rnd 2 into the back loops of Rnd 1. The first stitch of Rnd 3 goes in any “free sc” of Rnd 1.

Crocheted Forget Me Not Flower Tutorial

When you’re finished with Rnd 3, it looks like this from the front…

Crocheted Forget Me Not Flower Tutorial

…and like this from the back, for a total of 15 sc.

Crocheted Forget Me Not Flower Tutorial

Rnd 4 begins with ch 1, and then a sc in the first “free sc” of Rnd 1. The sc will seem fat and tall, because it is created around the sc of Rnd 3, and the ch of Round 2 at that point. Both those stitches will be hidden from view by this new sc.

Crocheted Forget Me Not Flower Tutorial

Now it’s time for a little multitasking. Work the next three stitches by inserting your hook into the next chain space of Rnd 2 AND also in the next sc of Rnd 3. The ch-sts of Rnd 2 will be hidden inside these three sts.

Crocheted Forget Me Not Flower Tutorial

The next two sts go into the next tr of Rnd 2. Ah, simple.

Crocheted Forget Me Not Flower Tutorial

Once again, you’ll be multitasking for the next three sts. They are worked into the next ch-sp of Rnd 2, AND in the next st of Rnd 3.

Whew! Done with one petal and ready to start the next petal with sc in the next free sc of Rnd 1. Four more petals, and you’re done!

I added some Ladder Leaves (page 71 of Crochet Garden) and filler motifs to my little Forget Me Nots, to create this piece of Crochet Charm Lace.

Crochet Charm Lace with Forget Me Not Flower

Happy Halloween!

October 31st, 2014

crocheted bat

Have a cutely spooky Halloween!

Love, Cute Crochet World

P. S. Bat pattern on pages 34-35. Also find a pumpkin, jack-o-lantern squash, archy cat with moon behind it.