Tag Archives | garden

Hints for Crocheting “Picot Mexico”

Crocheted Picot Mexico Flower Tutorial

The colorful Picot Mexico flower looks happy and joyful to me, with its vibrant colors. It is on pages 102-103 of Crochet Garden: Bunches of Flowers, Leaves, and Other Delights. You can also make Picot Mexico in one color of yarn.

First a correction to the book: Rnd 2 of the Small Flower (center column on page 103) refers twice to a “ch-3 sp.” It should read “ch-2 sp.”

And now, some hints for making Picot Mexico successfully. The sample is the Small Flower. but the hints apply to the Large Flower as well.

Crocheted Picot Mexico Flower Tutorial

To begin rnds 3 and 4, the instructions tell you to “join with *(BPdc around next dc…” This is almost the same as joining with a regular dc. Place a slip knot on your hook. Yarn over hook, holding the slip knot in place so the yo won’t twist away. (Photo 1)

Crocheted Picot Mexico Flower Tutorial

For a Back Post dc, still holding the slip knot in place, insert hook from the back to the front of your work, between two dc-sts of the previous rnd. (Photo 2)

Crocheted Picot Mexico Flower Tutorial

Passing hook in front of the next dc, insert hook to back again around that dc. (Photo 3)

Crocheted Picot Mexico Flower Tutorial

Draw up a loop around the post of the previous rnd’s dc. If you’ve successfully held the slip knot in place, you’ll have 3 loops on the hook. Finish as you would finish any dc. (Photo 4) If the yo has twisted away, you may be able to get it back by twisting the slip knot around the hook.

Crocheted Picot Mexico Flower Tutorial

In Rnds 3 and 4, increase by placing two BPdc-sts around one dc-post. Photo 5 shows the wrong side of the work, where the first two “BPdc around next dc and sl st-picot” are complete. The white arrow points to the next BPdc, which is the first of two around the same post.

Crocheted Picot Mexico Flower Tutorial

The increase is complete in Photo 6. The white arrow shows the first BPdc around the post, and the pink arrow shows the second BPdc around the same post.

Crocheted Picot Mexico Flower Tutorial

A friend on Ravelry (www.ravelry.com) asked for a photo of the back of a flower she was working on. That was such a good idea! So here’s what the small Picot Mexico looks like from the back (Photo 7).


Tips for Making Picot Mexico with One Color

  • Don’t fasten off after Rnd 1. Instead, as you begin Rnd 2, ch 3 to replace the first dc of the rnd. At the end of Rnd 2, sl st in the 3rd ch of the ch 3 at the beg of the rnd.
  • You’ll still have to fasten off the yarn after Rnds 2 and 3, so you can get a fresh start with the BPdc on the next round.
  • Don’t fasten off after Rnd 5. You have already sl stitched into the first sc of Rnd 5, so that counts as the first sl st of Rnd 6. Ch 3 and tr in the same st as the sl st. Continue Rnd 6 as written.

Crocheted Picot Mexico Flower Tutorial

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Gambel Oak Leaves—A Photo-Tutorial

Crocheted Gambel Oak Leaf Tutorial

Patricia, a crocheter who contacted me through Ravelry, asked for clarification of the instructions for the Gambel Oak Leaves on pages 21-23 of Crochet Garden. Thank you for asking, Patricia!

We’ll start with the Small Leaf (page 23). You will need the book for complete stitching instructions:

Crocheted Gambel Oak Leaf Tutorial

Both Gambel Oak leaves are made with long rows that comprise the lobes (always odd-numbered rows) and short rows which are the spacers between the lobes.

Here are the first two rows of the Small Leaf. Row 2 has a long turning chain, because Row 3 is a long row. Some of the sts of Row 3 are on the chain, and some are made into the sts of Row 2, as you can see from the marks on the photo.

Crocheted Gambel Oak Leaf Tutorial

Row 3 is finished, and includes a turning ch for Row 4.

Crocheted Gambel Oak Leaf Tutorial

These are the rows through Row 5.

Design Note:

Think about a ripple afghan. To make the bottom of the “V” in a ripple afghan, we decrease stitches to pull up the stitches on each side of the bottom point, to make the V. By decreasing at the center of the leaf, we’re pulling the lobes up from the bottom point of the leaf. We’re making half of a V.

Also, in Rows 1-4, the stitches toward the center of the leaf are long. Rows 5-9 have sc or sl st as the last st toward the center of the leaf. The short stitches curve the lobes around the top of the leaf to start down the other side.

Crocheted Gambel Oak Leaf Tutorial

After the last st of Row 9, we join to the first half of the leaf with a sl st in the base of Row 5. The base of Row 5 is the stitch in which the last st of Row 5 was made.

Then ch 1, sl st into the base of Row 4. The base of Row 4 is as close as you can get to the first ch of the turning chain at the end of Row 3 (which leads up to Row 4). The marks show the base of each row you need to stitch into.

Crocheted Gambel Oak Leaf Tutorial

This is what the leaf should look like at the end of Row 9, just before you turn.

Crocheted Gambel Oak Leaf Tutorial

For Row 10, skip the sl sts that join to the center of the leaf, and work sts as shown.

Crocheted Gambel Oak Leaf Tutorial

Row 11 is done, and this shows where to join in the base of Rows 3 and 2.

Design Note:

Back to the idea of a ripple afghan. To form the peak of a chevron in a ripple afghan, we increase stitches at the top. This pushes down the stitches on either side of the peak to make an upside-down V or arrow point ?.

Hold the leaf, with the top lobe pointing down. The lobes join at the top of the peak. That is why, on this side of the leaf, working from tip to base, we increase sts close to the center of the leaf. We do it to push the lobes down toward the tip of the leaf.

Think about it this way: an increase is an upside down decrease; a decrease is an upside down increase. This is a good thing to know when you’re designing your own patterns.

Crocheted Gambel Oak Leaf Tutorial

Row 13 is finished and joined to the base of Row 1. Now we’re ready to make the stem.

Crocheted Gambel Oak Leaf Tutorial

After crocheting the stem, take the yarn to the wrong side of the leaf. Read the full instructions for making the central vein, page 22.

Crocheted Gambel Oak Leaf Tutorial

Working up the middle of the leaf, insert the hook from front to back, yo at the back, make ch sts where the space is long, if you’re close to a joining stitch, sl st in that st. Work these ch and sl sts until you are at the base of the top lobe. Cut yarn and pull to front.

Crocheted Gambel Oak Leaf Tutorial

Insert the hook from wrong side to right side at the point where the yarn comes out of the leaf, but do not insert the hook in the last ch st. Yo with the cut end and pull it to the back. The last ch st will prevent the stitches from unraveling. Weave in ends.

Crocheted Gambel Oak Leaf Tutorial
Here’s the Large Leaf (instructions begin on page 21), worked through Row 11. The marks show the bases of the rows where the lobes are joined with sl sts.

Crocheted Gambel Oak Leaf Tutorial

Row 11 is joined with a sl st in the base of Row 7.

Crocheted Gambel Oak Leaf Tutorial

This shows where to place the sts of Row 8.

Crocheted Gambel Oak Leaf Tutorial

When you finish crocheting the leaves, the lobes curl into themselves, so as you block, be sure to stretch the end of each lobe to pull them out to their proper shape.

To block small pieces like this, I hold them under the water tap for a few seconds, squeeze out excess water, stretch each lobe, and finally hold a hot iron over them, barely touching the crochet. Sometimes I use a damp press cloth to protect the stitching as well as add more steam.

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Perspective Daisy Table Mat Finally Finished!

Perspective Daisy Crochet Charm Lace table mat

I enjoy getting together with family on weekends and “watching” football. Why did I put “watching” in quotes? Because I usually only look at the TV when people get excited, hoping that whatever fantastic play just happened will be shown again. Sound familiar, my fellow knitters and crocheters?

Yep, I’m usually working on some kind of project. But it can’t be too complex, because that would keep me from listening to the conversation and the commentary. So the project for this season has been Crochet Charm Lace.

Perspective Daisy Crochet Charm Lace table mat

Last weekend, as we watched the Texas Longhorns play football, I finished the Perspective Daisy table mat. I’m still debating whether to add more filler motifs. Before I decide, it needs to be used for a while. That way, I’ll be able to see where they are needed most.

On to the next project!

Perspective Daisy Crochet Charm Lace table mat

The Perspective Daisy pattern is from Crochet Garden: Bunches of Flowers, Leaves, and Other Delights. Follow the progress of the Perspective Daisy table mat project in these posts about Crochet Charm Lace. After rereading these posts, I see that I was arranging motifs for this project during a 2013 Texas Longhorn football game. Time flies.

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Step-by-Step Forget Me Not

Crocheted Forget Me Not Flower Tutorial

Today is National Forget-Me-Not Day! Who knew? Many thanks to Vintage Bell Broken China Jewelry, whom I follow on Facebook, for bringing this to my attention! National Forget-Me-Not Day reminds us to get in touch with friends and relatives that we don’t see very often.

National Forget-Me-Not Day has nothing to do with flowers, but what better day to bring you a tutorial for the Forget Me Not flower on pages 86-87 of Crochet Garden? You’ll need a small amount of yellow yarn for the center, white or very light blue for Rnd 2, and sky blue for the petals.

Crocheted Forget Me Not Flower Tutorial

Rnd 1 is the brilliant yellow, single crochet center of the flower. Rnd 2 tells you to join the next color “with dc in FL of any st of rnd 1.” To join with a double crochet, place a slip knot on your hook and yarn over. Holding the yo in place on the hook, insert hook into the front loop of any stitch of Rnd 1.

Crocheted Forget Me Not Flower Tutorial

Draw up a loop (as in photo). Now you have three loops on your hook, which is exactly what you need to finish the double crochet. Work the rest of the stitches of Rnd 2 in the front loops only of Rnd 1.

Crocheted Forget Me Not Flower Tutorial

Here’s Rnd 2 all finished, with the yarn ends woven in. Do you see the stitches of Rnd 1 that have no stitches of Rnd 2 in them? We’re going to call those “free sc”s.

Crocheted Forget Me Not Flower Tutorial

Rnd 3 is worked in the back loops of the stitches of Rnd 1, so you need to fold Rnd 2 to the front, completely out of the way, and insert your hook behind Rnd 2 into the back loops of Rnd 1. The first stitch of Rnd 3 goes in any “free sc” of Rnd 1.

Crocheted Forget Me Not Flower Tutorial

When you’re finished with Rnd 3, it looks like this from the front…

Crocheted Forget Me Not Flower Tutorial

…and like this from the back, for a total of 15 sc.

Crocheted Forget Me Not Flower Tutorial

Rnd 4 begins with ch 1, and then a sc in the first “free sc” of Rnd 1. The sc will seem fat and tall, because it is created around the sc of Rnd 3, and the ch of Round 2 at that point. Both those stitches will be hidden from view by this new sc.

Crocheted Forget Me Not Flower Tutorial

Now it’s time for a little multitasking. Work the next three stitches by inserting your hook into the next chain space of Rnd 2 AND also in the next sc of Rnd 3. The ch-sts of Rnd 2 will be hidden inside these three sts.

Crocheted Forget Me Not Flower Tutorial

The next two sts go into the next tr of Rnd 2. Ah, simple.

Crocheted Forget Me Not Flower Tutorial

Once again, you’ll be multitasking for the next three sts. They are worked into the next ch-sp of Rnd 2, AND in the next st of Rnd 3.

Whew! Done with one petal and ready to start the next petal with sc in the next free sc of Rnd 1. Four more petals, and you’re done!

I added some Ladder Leaves (page 71 of Crochet Garden) and filler motifs to my little Forget Me Nots, to create this piece of Crochet Charm Lace.

Crochet Charm Lace with Forget Me Not Flower

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Dream Home—A Crochet Picture

Keeping a crochet secret is very difficult! I wanted to blog about the Dream Home project many times. But I also wanted to enter it into the Crochet Guild of America Design Competition. One of the rules is that an entry cannot have been published in print or online prior to the competition.

Dream Home, by Suzann Thompson

Now that the CGOA Design Competition is over for the year, I’m free, freeeeeeeeeeee! I’m free to tell the story of Dream Home. Finally!

I love fairy tales and similar stories. The illustrations I remember from childhood were rich in color and imagery from nature. Fairy tale homes had no modern machinery or complex technology.

Crocheted rabbit, ladybug, mushrooms

In a dream, a rabbit can fit under a toadstool, day and night can share the sky over your house.

You can see those childhood and dream images in Dream Home. The subject is pretty simple—a house, trees, some animals. As you come closer, you see more complexity—images in the sky, and the many small pieces that make up the whole.

I keep peeking around the doorway to look at Dream Home hanging in my livingroom. Seeing it makes me happy.

The History of Dream Home

Dream Home

Originally, Dream Home was going to be mounted onto a piece of felted wool and then made into a quilted wall hanging. The blue felt looked so good with the motifs of the picture. I was prearranging the pieces in this photo. That was when I realized just how many motifs were still left to crochet—lots and lots of blue circles for the sky, lots and lots of green petals and pink flowers for the lawn.

Finally the crochet charm lace was all done, meaning the motifs were sewn together to form the picture. I couldn’t quite visualize the finished piece, so I rolled the picture inside the felt and thought about it…for months.

With the deadline coming nearer, I bought a small quilting hoop to hold the piece while I hand-quilted it. Still, I couldn’t see it finished.

One day Ella and I were wandering around Michaels. In the painting section, I saw canvasses and thought, “What about sewing the picture to a canvas?” Artist’s canvas comes stretched and stapled to a wooden frame. It’s easy to hang. Right or wrong, a picture on canvas looks more like art than the same picture on a quilt. Now THAT, I could see.

I bought a canvas and prepared it by spraying it with a clear acrylic coating.

crocheted wall hanging

crocheted wall hanging

Should I use the pretty, blue, felted wool in the background, or not? After canvassing family members for their opinions, I chose to put the picture on the canvas without blue wool.

The sewing began. To keep the picture from sagging, I sewed around every single motif, attaching it to the canvas. Ignoring the large number of motifs, for fear they would discourage me, I just sewed one at a time. Eventually they were all sewn down.

crocheted butterflies

The picture looked lonely, floating around on that big, white canvas. It needed the button frame, which didn’t take very long to sew in place. I love button frames.

Here’s the scoop on the motifs:

From Crochet Garden:

  • Butterflies (left, in the sky), “Sulfur Butterfly & Friends,” pp. 31-33
  • Curlicues that form the water (lower left), “Curlicue Sprays,” pp. 62-63
  • Purple anemone with white and black center (right, under owl’s wing), “Anemone & Friend,” pp. 120-121

crocheted curlicues, water, and turtle

crocheted owl, anemone, mushroom, ladybug, bullion rose

From Crochet Bouquet:

  • Big green leaf (lower right, between toadstools and red rose), “Small One-Row Leaf,” pp. 120-121
  • Pink flowers in lawn, “Millefiori,” Tiny Petals, p. 26
  • Grass tufts in lawn, “Millefiori,” Rounded Petals, p. 25
  • Smallest trees in background, “Veined Leaf,” Plain Vein, pp. 123-124

crocheted house, tree, turtle, grass, bunny, flowers

crocheted rocket, star

From Cute Crochet World:

  • Mushrooms, “Storybook Mushroom,” pp. 59-61
  • Bullion rose, “Valentine Roses,” pp. 92-93
  • “Ladybug, Ladybug,” pp. 20-21
  • “Bunny,” pp. 38-39
  • “Turtle,” pp. 27-29
  • House, “Cozy Home,” pp. 133-136
  • Medium sized trees to the right of the house, “Cherry Blossom,” pp. 76-77
  • Owl, “Oval Owl,” pp. 36-37
  • Stars, “Starry Night,” pp. 98-99
  • Moon, “Winter Moon,” pp. 96-97
  • Rocket ship, “Vacation Transportation,” pp. 116-119
  • Clouds, “Cutely Cloudy,” pp. 86-87
  • Airplane, “Vacation Transportation,” pp. 116-119
  • “Bluebird of Happiness,” pp. 24-26
  • Sun, “Summer Sun,” pp. 94-95

crocheted bluebird, sun, cloud, butterfly

crocheted airplane, cloud, star

Next year’s entry into the CGOA Design Competition is already underway. It’s a…oops, can’t talk about it yet.

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Step-by-Step Frost Flower

Crocheted Frost Flower or Snowflake Tutorial

The Frost Flower on pages 112-113 of Crochet Garden doubles as a snowflake if you crochet it all in white. The pattern is pretty straightforward, but a few pictures will help you visualize it. Look for a Frost Flower table mat project here.

Crocheted Frost Flower or Snowflake Tutorial

Round 1 of the Frost Flower sets up the six petals. The large loop will be completely covered by the stitches of the next round.

Crocheted Frost Flower or Snowflake Tutorial

Round 2 includes clusters of hdc, dc, and tr. Note that the instructions for the clusters (“Special Abbreviations” on page 113) include a ch-st to close the cluster. So when the pattern says “2 dc-CL, ch 3,” you make the dc-cluster, ch 1 to close it, and ch 3.

Why did I write it that way? I don’t know. It must have seemed correct at the time.

Crocheted Frost Flower or Snowflake Tutorial

I crocheted Round 3 in light blue yarn, so you could see it better. The bumps are hdc-picots: ch 3, hdc in 3rd ch from hook. If you want the Basic Frost Flower, you’re done after this round!

Crocheted Frost Flower or Snowflake Tutorial

Now for Round 4, which changes the Basic Frost Flower into a Fancy Flake. First, take a close look at the middle of the flower. The yellow lines in the photo show the small triangles formed by the ch-2s of Round 1 plus the ch 2 between petals of Round 2.

Each petal of Round 4 is worked around one triangle, which comprises

  • the ch 2 at the end of a Round 1 petal,
  • the ch 2 between petals of Round 2,
  • and the ch 2 at the beginning of a Round 1 petal.

Crocheted Frost Flower or Snowflake Tutorial

To begin Round 4, locate the ch 2 at the end of a Round 1 petal. Fold the flower at this point, so you can work around the ch-2. Begin at the centermost edge of the ch-2 and work toward the outside of the flower: with a slip knot on your hook, insert hook under the ch-2, draw up a loop, yo, complete the first sc, sc 1, hdc 1.

Now you’ve finished the first part of the first petal.

Crocheted Frost Flower or Snowflake Tutorial

The next part of the petal is worked around the ch-2 between petals, which in my flower is white.

Crocheted Frost Flower or Snowflake Tutorial

Crochet the final part of the petal around the ch-2 at the beginning of the next Round 1 petal. Then go on to the next petal of Round 4. Getting into position to crochet the next petal feels uncomfortably tight, but it will work.

Crocheted Frost Flower or Snowflake Tutorial

Round 4 is finished, and we have a Fancy Flake.

Crocheted Frost Flower or Snowflake Tutorial

Here’s the Fancy Flake, seen from the underside. You can see the bottoms of the stitches of Round 4 in six little triangle shapes around the center.

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Candy Cornflower Crochet Along with Improvements

Candy corn flower

It’s almost Halloween, and we still have a couple of days to crochet some Candy Cornflowers!

The idea for these flowers came straight from my childhood, when candy corn was practically a food group at Halloween. It’s called corn, so it must be a…veggie?

The pattern for “Candy Cornflower” is on pages 124-125 of Crochet Garden. Round 1 is pretty easy.

Things get more interesting in Round 2, where you create a common popcorn stitch to start the petals.

Starting a round with hdc

But first, how do you start a round with 6 hdc? To start the round with hdc, make a slipknot on your hook, yo, and draw up a loop in the first ch-2 sp as directed (Photo A). Yo again and draw through all 3 loops on hook to finish the first hdc (Photo B). Work remaining 5 hdc in same ch-2 space.

Starting a round with hdc

Crocheting a popcorn stitch

To popcorn-join this group of 6 hdc, enlarge the last loop of the last stitch. Take hook out of loop. Insert hook into the top of the first stitch of the group, then reinsert it into the last loop (Photo C). Pull the last loop through the top of the first st to complete popcorn (Photo D).

Crocheting a popcorn stitch

Before you start any petal after Rnd 2, take time to identify the stitches of the previous round, which you will be working into. And remember, in Crochet Garden, unless otherwise directed, each stitch (or stitches) goes into the next stitch of the previous round.

Preparing to join crocheted popcorn stitch

In Round 3, fourth line of pattern, change “petals of rnd 1” to “petals of rnd 2.” Unlike your usual popcorn stitch pattern, in this round, you work into the stitches of the previous popcorn, skipping the first and last hdc of each petal, for a total of 8 hdc per petal. The sts of these petals are also pulled together as you would join a common popcorn stitch (Photo E).

Candy Cornflower: underside of Rnd 3

When you’re finished with Round 3, the underside of the flower looks like Photo F.

Since Crochet Garden was published, I have crocheted the Candy Cornflower several times, making what I hope are improvements to the patter along the way. Here are my rewritten Rounds 4-6.

Candy Cornflower: underside of Rnd 4

Improved Candy Cornflower Rnd 4: Ch 2 (counts as first hdc), hdc in next st, (2 hdc) in next st, hdc in next 2 sts, (2 hdc) in next st, hdc in next 2 sts, popcorn-join this group of 10 sts, ch 6. *Starting in first st of next petal, hdc in next 2 sts, (2 hdc) in next st, hdc in next 2 sts, (2 hdc) in next st, hdc in next 2 sts, popcorn-join this group of 10 sts, ch 6; rep from * 5 times, join with sl st to first hdc of rnd. Fasten off C. (Photos G and H show underside and topside of Candy Cornflower after this round.)

Candy Cornflower after Rnd 4

Improved Candy Cornflower Rnd 5: Join D with *hdc in first hdc of next petal, hdc in next st, (2 hdc) in next st, hdc in next 4 sts, (2 hdc) in next st, hdc in next 2 sts, popcorn-join this group of 12 sts, ch 4, sl st in next ch-6 sp, ch 4; rep from * 6 times, join with sl st to first hdc of rnd.

Candy Cornflower, Rnd 6 in progress

Improved Candy Cornflower Rnd 6: *Sk 3 sts of next petal, working in back loop only, (hdc2tog) 3 times, ch 1, sl st in next ch-4 sp, ch 2, sl st in next ch-4 sp, ch 1; rep from * 6 times, join with sl st to first st of rnd. This rnd bends to the back forming the top of the candy corn motif. Photo I shows Rnd 9 in progress.

Weave in the ends, block gently, and you have a Candy Cornflower!

Candy Cornflower finished!

One last note, in Crochet Garden, I mentioned that candy corn makes excellent false teeth and fangs. Two lovely models demonstrate in the photo below.

Candy corn teeth and fangs

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Crochet Charm Lace—A New Name for Flower Cloth

Formerly known as Flower Cloth, Crochet Charm Lace is made of separately crocheted motifs, fitted together and pinned, right-side-down, on a waste-fabric template, then sewn together wherever they touch. The fabric is removed and the lace turned right-side-up.

Why the new name? My new book, Cute Crochet World, has lots of motifs that are perfect for the Flower Cloth technique, but…they’re not flowers!

I tried “motif cloth” but it sounds dull to my ears. The technique is sort of free form, but not really. Okay, it’s lacy, so maybe I could put “lace” into the name.

As has happened to me so many times over the years, I found inspiration from the quilting world. A charm quilt is patchwork, where every patch is from a different fabric. Since a flower/motif cloth project can be made with yarns in many different weights, colors, and textures, the “charm” part of the name seemed to make sense. So, Crochet Charm Lace it is!

Oval Center Rose Crocheted Poncho

The first Crochet Charm Lace project I made was the enormous Roses Cape with Oval Center Roses, Simple Fives, and Rose Leaves from Crochet Bouquet. While my daughters swam in our plastic pool, I crocheted Oval Center Roses. When we went on trips, my husband drove and I crocheted Oval Center Roses. I could practically crochet Oval Center Roses in my sleep. You get the idea.

For a template, I sewed a poncho using a commercial poncho pattern and some unfortunately ugly fabric–luckily the template fabric isn’t part of the finished project. I arranged the roses, leaves, and little blue flowers on the template and pinned them in place with a staggering number of brass-colored safety pins. Sewing all those motifs together took forever!

The progress of the Roses Cape is in my other blog, Suzann’s TextileFusion, beginning on March 4, 2008 and ending on February 10, 2010.

Crocheted Flower Doily

This doughnut-shaped doily is true to the “charm” aspect of Crochet Charm Lace, because of the many different yarns in the project. All the motifs are from Crochet Bouquet. Find step-by-step photos and instructions at Crochet Insider. This was back when I called the technique “flower fabric.”

Crocheted Trillium Scarf

The Trillium Flower Scarf is made from motifs from Crochet Garden. You can see step-by-step photos for putting the scarf together here at the Lark Crafts Blog: http://www.larkcrafts.com/needlearts/trillium-flower-cloth-scarf-project-from-suzann-thompson/

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Crochet Garden at TNNA, Columbus, Ohio

TNNA Summer NeedleArts Trade Show

Imagine a market where yarn shop owners go to buy stock for their stores. It’s like the best dream ever! That’s what’s in store at The National Needlework Association Summer NeedleArts Trade Show in Columbus, Ohio, June 23-25, 2012.

The show is open to TNNA members, like yarn and needlework shop owners, manufacturers, publishers, designers, and teachers. In other words, people in the business of yarn- and needle-crafting.

Dale of Norway Yarns

I’m going to be there, signing copies of Crochet Garden at the Dale of Norway Yarns booth (booth numbers 510 and 512). I am so excited!

Kathryn, a knitting guild friend from way back in our Austin days, introduced me to Dale of Norway Yarns years ago. I fell in love with the deliciously bright colors of Heilo and Baby Ull. As a color-lover, I was impressed that a person could buy yarn in so many different qualities of one color. The patterns were gorgeous, too. The knitted baby clothes were just darling.

The bright colors of Dale of Norway Falk were perfect for these Trilliums (pages 126-127 of Crochet Garden).

Crocheted Trillium from Crochet Garden

The Summer NeedleArts Trade Show is for TNNA members, but if you can’t go as a member of TNNA, please encourage your local yarn shop owners to drop by and say hello.

If you are a needlearts professional, and you haven’t joined TNNA, please visit the TNNA website for more information about this helpful organization (click on the TNNA Summer Show Logo above—it’s a link).

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How is Crochet Garden Different from Crochet Bouquet?

The Tole Tulip from Crochet Garden

Beth, a friend from Ravelry, sent me this message, and it was a great opportunity to get on my soapbox. Thank you, Beth! The soapbox is one of my favorite places!

Was wondering – about your Crochet Garden book, are there lots of new patterns in your new book, please? How would you describe the book in relation to its predecessor?

All the very best

Beth

Hi Beth!

Crochet Garden has all new flower patterns. I’d say it is very focused on its four themes:

      Botanical Garden (realistic flowers)
      International Garden (flowers with a tie to various countries around the world)
      Inspired Garden (flowers interpreted from decorative arts like embroidery, weaving, chinaware)
      Fun and Fantastic Garden (imagine “Candy Cornflower,” “Imp Flower,” and “Frost Flower”)

It also has a few leaves, a peacock, a butterfly with variations.

Crochet Garden reintroduces a vintage crochet stitch, the Russian Spoke Stitch. The Tole Tulip (shown above) and the Twirl Center Rose are noteworthy for their unusual and cool construction.

Thanks for asking!

Suzann

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